Iwate Prefecture
Do
Walk through a chilly cave to a blue lake
In these limestone caves, lit paths lead you past stalactites to underground lakes of clear blue water. The air inside stays cool all year, so bring a light jacket even in summer. Caves can close after heavy rain, so check the official site on the day you go.
Do
Drink fresh beer next to the tanks it came from
All over Japan, small craft breweries pour their beer in taprooms set right beside the brewing tanks, so what you drink was made a few steps away. Order a few small glasses to compare styles, often with food made to go with them. The places in and around Tokyo make an easy evening out, while those farther away fit into a longer trip through the region.
Do
Pedal along old train tracks on a rail bike
On a few closed country railway lines the tracks have been left in place, and you can ride them on a rail bike, a small pedal-powered cart that runs on the rails. You roll through tunnels, over iron bridges and along river gorges, with the clack of the rail joints under your wheels. Rides need booking in advance and most stop for the winter, so check the season first.
Do
Eat in a retro department store dining hall
From the 1950s to the 1970s, a family outing in Japan often ended at the big dining hall on the top floor of a department store, over plates of omurice (an omelet on ketchup rice), ice cream and set meals. A few of these halls still keep their old look and menus, so you can order the same dishes in the same setting today. The one in Ueno is easy to reach from central Tokyo, while the others are in Iwate in the north and Kagoshima in the far south.
Do
Walk deep inside a limestone cave
Ryusendo in Iwate, Akiyoshido in Yamaguchi and Ryugado in Kochi are known as Japan's three great limestone caves, each with lit paths that take you deep underground. One has underground lakes of clear blue water, one has huge stalactites and terraced pools, and one holds pottery left by people who lived there about 2,000 years ago. The three are far apart, so visit the one on your route, and bring a light layer because the caves stay cool all year.
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