Shibuya

Listen to records on giant speakers over coffee

A listening cafe, or kissa, is an old style of Japanese cafe where you sit facing huge speakers and listen to records over a cup of coffee: a meikyoku kissa plays classical music, and a jazz kissa plays jazz. Many ask you to keep conversation down so everyone can listen, which makes them ideal for an afternoon on your own. You need no Japanese beyond ordering a coffee, and lingering for an hour or more over one cup is normal.

Step inside palaces and old mansions

Tokyo keeps a number of grand buildings you can walk through: a palace used for state guests, the homes of an imperial prince and of former daimyo (feudal lords), and a school about 100 years old. Walking from room to room, you notice what photos miss: the staircases, the light fixtures and the decoration that changes in every room. Some open only on set days or during exhibitions, so check before you go.

Drink fresh beer next to the tanks it came from

All over Japan, small craft breweries pour their beer in taprooms set right beside the brewing tanks, so what you drink was made a few steps away. Order a few small glasses to compare styles, often with food made to go with them. The places in and around Tokyo make an easy evening out, while those farther away fit into a longer trip through the region.

Eat fresh tofu while it is still steaming

Tofu tastes best on the day it is made, and a few restaurants make their own and serve it while the steam is still rising. Try yudofu, tofu warmed in a pot of light dashi broth, for breakfast in Kyoto, or a tofu lunch in Tokyo. Both are close to a major station, so they fit easily into a sightseeing day.

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