Hyogo Prefecture
Do
Hop between baths in a robe and fire a cork gun
In some old hot spring towns, inn guests stroll from one public bathhouse to the next, called soto-yu, wearing a yukata, a light cotton robe lent by the inn. Between soaks, stop at an old game parlor to knock prizes off a shelf with a cork gun, a game called shateki, or play smart ball, a pinball-like game with glass marbles. These towns are 2.5 to 3 hours from Tokyo or Kyoto, so they are best with a night at a ryokan, and many parlors stay open into the evening.
Do
See old classics back to back on a big screen
A meigaza is an old-style repertory cinema that shows films after their first run, usually two back to back for a single ticket, with programs built around a director or an era. Pick a double bill from the schedule and settle in among local film fans. Japanese films are usually shown without English subtitles, so choose a foreign film in its original language or a screening marked with English subtitles.
Do
Compare the waters of five hot spring towns
These are five of Japan's best-known onsen towns: Kusatsu, Gero and Arima, the classic three, plus Beppu, which has more hot spring water than anywhere else in Japan, and Dogo, one of the oldest. Each has its own water and a landmark at its heart, from wooden channels of steaming water to a bathhouse where you are buried in warm sand. They are spread across Japan, so pick the one that fits your route; Arima is the closest, about an hour from Osaka.
Town
Minamiawaji
An island of sweet onions and whirlpools
Awaji Island, across a long bridge from Kobe, is Japan's best-known onion island, where harvested onions are hung in sheds to cure until they turn sweet. At its southern tip, facing the whirlpools of the Naruto Strait, eat whole roasted onions and onion burgers with a view of a giant suspension bridge, then take onions home from a farm market. It is about two and a half hours from Osaka by train and highway bus, and a car makes getting around much easier.
Town
Awaji
Seaside cafes facing the setting sun
The west coast of Awaji Island, a large island in the Seto Inland Sea linked to Kobe by a long suspension bridge, faces open water, so the sun sets straight into the sea. Cafes and restaurants line the coast road, each with windows or terraces turned toward the sunset. You will need a car, about an hour's drive from central Kobe, so check the sunset time and aim to arrive a little before it.
Do
End your trip high above the city lights
Hakodate, Kobe and Nagasaki are known for Japan's three great night views, each seen from a mountaintop where you look down on a city spread between hills and sea. Ride up a little before sunset and watch the city slowly light up below you. Hakodate and Nagasaki are a flight away from Tokyo, while Kobe is close to Osaka, so it is the easiest one to fit into a trip.
Town
Toyooka
An onsen town for bath-hopping in a yukata
In Kinosaki, ryokan line a willow-shaded canal, and public bathhouses are scattered through town, each with its own kind of bath. Change into a yukata, a light cotton kimono, and wooden geta sandals, and walk from one bath to the next; day visitors are welcome too. It is about 2.5 hours by train from Kyoto or Osaka.
Do
Soak in Japan's three classic hot spring towns
Kusatsu, Arima and Gero have been called Japan's three finest hot springs since the 1600s, and each town has public baths you can use on a day visit without staying overnight. The water is different in each: strongly acidic in Kusatsu, rust-brown and salty in Arima, smooth and alkaline in Gero. Arima is about an hour from Osaka, while Kusatsu and Gero are better with a night at a ryokan.
Do
Watch rice crackers bake and try free samples
Senbei are crisp Japanese crackers, usually made from rice, and some are pressed thin with shrimp or octopus. At a few factory shops you can watch them being baked through a window, then walk along the tasting counters and choose a favorite to take home. Watching is free and you can drop in without booking.
Do
Laugh along at an old-style comedy hall
A yose is a small theater for rakugo, comic storytelling in which one performer kneels on a cushion and plays every character with only a fan and a hand towel. Between the storytellers come comedy duos, magicians and paper-cutting artists who snip shapes on request, so the acts keep changing through the afternoon. Most of the talk is in Japanese, but the magic and paper-cutting need no words, and at many halls you can simply buy a ticket at the door.
Town
Kobe
An onsen town with gold and silver waters
Arima is one of Japan's oldest hot springs, written about in a chronicle from the year 720. Two kinds of water rise here, rust-brown kinsen ("gold water") and clear ginsen ("silver water"), and you can try both at the public bathhouses, which allow tattoos. It is about an hour from Osaka by bus, or 30 minutes from Kobe.
Do
Sip sake you can only get at the brewery
Some sake breweries run their own restaurants, where you can drink sake that is not sold anywhere else, with food made to go with it. Non-drinkers can tour the brewery, try sweets made from sake lees, the paste left after pressing, or simply enjoy the meal. All three here are an easy train ride from Tokyo or Osaka.
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