Watch cormorants fish by firelight on a river
In ukai, fishermen called usho handle trained cormorants on leashes, and the birds dive for sweetfish under a basket of fire hung from the bow; a cord around each bird's neck stops it from swallowing the bigger fish. Watch from a roofed boat drifting alongside, close enough to feel the heat of the flames. It is held on summer nights.
On the Nagara River in Gifu, where the tradition goes back more than 1,300 years and the six usho hold the title of fishermen to the Imperial Household. Roofed boats take you right beside the cormorant boats from May 11 to October 15. Gifu is about 20 minutes from Nagoya by JR.
The viewing boats get so close that you can hear the fire crackle and feel its heat, with Inuyama Castle lit up above the river; it is a National Treasure, and its keep from the 1580s is the oldest still standing in Japan. Night ukai runs June 1 to October 15, about 30 minutes from Nagoya by Meitetsu.
On the Hiji River in Ehime, the cormorant boats and the viewing boats drift downstream side by side, past the lights of Ozu Castle and the Garyu Sanso villa. Held June 1 to September 20, about 35 minutes from Matsuyama by JR.
Just upstream of Togetsukyo Bridge in Arashiyama, Kyoto, a roofed boat takes you beside the cormorant boats against the dark mountains. Held July 1 to September 23.
On the Mikuma River in Hita, a hot spring town in Oita, watch cormorants chase sweetfish from a lantern-lit boat, with dinner on board if you like. Usually May 20 to October 31; Hita is about 1.5 hours from Hakata by limited express.