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Rest over red bean desserts at an old parlor

A kanmidokoro is a traditional sweets cafe where you sit down to desserts made with sweet red bean paste, such as anmitsu, jelly cubes and fruit with syrup, and zenzai, a warm sweet bean soup with rice cake. These long-running ones sit in Tokyo's sightseeing areas, such as Asakusa, Ueno and Shibamata, so you can rest your feet between sights. Many close one or two days a week, so check before you go.

Asakusa Umezono

A sweets cafe near Senso-ji in Asakusa, known for awa zenzai, a warm, soft cake of millet under thick, smooth bean paste. It also serves anmitsu, so it is an easy break between the temple and the shops. It closes on two Wednesdays a month, so check its notices first.

Takemura
Takemura
Chiyoda, Tokyo

A sweets cafe in an old wooden house in Kanda that came through the wartime fires, open here since 1930. Its specialty is age-manju, a bean-paste bun fried until the outside is crisp, and in the colder months awa zenzai, warm millet cake under bean paste. It is closed on Sundays, Mondays and public holidays.

Anmitsu Mihashi Ueno Main Store
Taito, Tokyo

A busy anmitsu shop by the Shinobazu exit of Ueno Station, handy after Ueno Park and its museums. The main shop alone serves a few extra items, such as ozoni, a soup with rice cake, and red bean rice, and it stays open into the evening, so it works as the last stop of the day.

Funawa Main Store
Funawa Main Store
Taito, Tokyo

The main shop of a confectioner known for imo-yokan, a firm bar of sweet potato, with a tea room on the upper floors. It calls itself the birthplace of mitsumame, a bowl of jelly cubes, beans and fruit with syrup. It is a short walk from Senso-ji and open every day.

Takagiya Historic Store
Takagiya Historic Store
Katsushika, Tokyo

An old dango shop on the lane to Taishakuten temple in Shibamata, selling kusa-dango, rice dumplings colored green with mugwort, a wild herb. Across the lane is its sit-down cafe, where you can rest with dumplings, kuzumochi or a bowl of oden. Shibamata is about half an hour by train from Ueno.

Kameya Honpo
Kameya Honpo
Katsushika, Tokyo

Another kusa-dango shop on the same lane, with seats on two floors for dumplings or a light meal. Try one here and one at Takagiya to compare. It takes credit cards, and it closes on Mondays and some Fridays, so check its notices first.

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