In Kochi, on the island of Shikoku, bonito (katsuo, a fish like a small tuna) is seared over burning rice straw, and the roaring flames and smoky smell are part of the meal. Watch the cooks sear it at a market counter, or hold the fish over the fire yourself, then eat it warm as tataki, thick slices seared outside and raw inside.
A casual restaurant where you sear bonito yourself, holding the fish over a straw fire as the flames roar up around it. You then eat the tataki on the spot, still warm and smoky. Opening days can vary, so check before you go.
A counter at Hirome Market, a lively food hall in central Kochi with dozens of small stalls, where cooks sear bonito over tall straw flames right in front of you. Try shio-tataki, seared bonito eaten with just salt, a local favorite. Seating is shared, so you can take it to a table and add dishes from the other stalls.
A bonito restaurant in central Kochi, run by the same company as the busy market stall, where you can sit down to a full dinner of seared bonito dishes. If you like, you can try searing the fish over the straw fire yourself before you eat. It opens in the evening, and booking a table ahead is best.
A workshop in Kure, a small port about an hour from Kochi city that has long lived on bonito fishing. Here you sear blocks of bonito over a straw fire to take home, or learn to fillet a whole fish. Experiences are booked in advance by phone in Japanese, so ask your hotel or a tourist office to call for you.