A deep-sea fishing port of tuna bowls
Misaki, at the southern tip of the Miura Peninsula, is a home port for boats that fish for tuna far out in the open ocean, and their catch fills the menus of the town's restaurants. It is about an hour and a half from Shinagawa in Tokyo, by Keikyu train to Misakiguchi Station and then about 20 minutes by bus. Have a tuna bowl, pick up souvenirs at the harbor market, then walk the old streets behind the port, where a few clay-walled storehouses still stand.
A tuna restaurant that serves only wild-caught tuna, from bowls of bluefin over rice to a limited bowl of nakaochi, the soft meat scraped from between the bones. It opens in the morning, so you can eat before walking around the port, and the nakaochi bowl can sell out, so earlier is better.
The harbor's market for local produce, right on the water. Downstairs, the fish hall sells unusual cuts of tuna and tuna products you rarely see in the city; upstairs, you can buy vegetables from the farms of the Miura Peninsula. A deck upstairs looks out over the port.
A merchant's house from the early 1900s with thick clay walls, now a small free museum. It shows Chakkirako, a dance performed by young girls each January to pray for good fortune, along with everyday life in the town in the mid-20th century. It is open only on weekends and public holidays.