Wagyu sushi and sake in an old merchant town
Takayama, in the mountains of central Japan, has held a morning market since the Edo period, and its old merchant quarter is lined with dark wooden houses and sake breweries. Browse the riverside stalls in the morning, then walk the old streets eating Hida beef sushi, seared wagyu on rice, and tasting local sake. It is about 2.5 hours from Nagoya by limited express.
White-tented stalls line the bank of the Miyagawa River, selling farmers' vegetables and fruit, pickles and folk crafts. It runs every morning of the year until noon, and the earlier you come, the more there is to choose from.
A takeaway stand that serves seared Hida beef sushi on a rice cracker instead of a plate, so you can eat it as you walk. Expect a line at lunchtime.
Streets of dark wooden merchant houses with fine lattices, with sake breweries, miso shops and teahouses. A brewery hangs a sugidama, a ball of cedar sprigs, over its door to show the new sake is ready.
A sake brewery in the old town, founded around 1700, where you can taste a few of its seasonal sakes side by side at the shop. It also has a restaurant serving Hida beef.
The only government office of its kind from the shogun's rule still standing in Japan. Walk through the magistrate's rooms, the interrogation room and the big storehouse where rice was paid as tax; a small morning market is held in front, too.
See the floats of the Takayama Festival all year round, close enough to study their karakuri, mechanical puppets, and fine metalwork. The festival itself, on UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage list, is held on April 14–15 and October 9–10.