A fishing village that seems to float on a bay
Around Ine Bay, on the Sea of Japan coast in the far north of Kyoto Prefecture, some 230 funaya stand at the water's edge: wooden boathouses with a garage for a fishing boat on the ground floor, opening straight onto the sea. Take a short cruise to see the whole row from the water, then step inside a funaya or walk the road behind them. It is about three hours each way from Kyoto Station by train and bus, and buses are not frequent, so plan a full day or stay the night.
A 25-minute cruise around the bay, with the long row of funaya seen from the water the way fishermen see it. Seagulls follow the boat, and you can buy snacks at the pier to feed them from the deck. Boats leave every 30 minutes during the day and do not sail in rough weather.
A funaya more than 80 years old that you can walk into. Sit at the open edge of the boat garage with your feet in the sea, eating gelato. It takes cash only, and closing days vary.
A funaya you can look inside, with old fishing tools and photographs that show how families used the boat garage and the loft above it. There is a small entry fee, paid in cash, and it is closed on Wednesdays.
An inn in a family home from the 1860s, where a guide shows you the main house and the ground floor of its funaya. Tours run only when a sign is posted at the door, so look for it when you walk by.
Walk the narrow road along the bay to see the row of funaya up close, their wide doors open to the water. Most are still in use, with families living in the houses across the road, so stay on the road and do not step onto their land.