Tunnels of red torii and fox-shaped crackers
Fushimi Inari Taisha is the head shrine of Inari, the god of rice and prosperity, whose messengers are foxes. Behind its main hall, about 10,000 vermilion torii gates climb the mountain in long tunnels. On the way back, snack down the approach street on inari sushi and fox-shaped crackers.
The head shrine of all the Inari shrines in Japan, where stone foxes guard the halls with keys and jewels in their mouths. It is open 24 hours, so come early in the morning or toward evening, when the crowds thin out. Right in front of JR Inari Station, about 5 minutes from Kyoto Station.
Two rows of torii stand so close together that they form vermilion tunnels. Each gate was donated by a person or company, whose name is written on the back. Walking to the inner shrine and back takes 1.5 to 2 hours, and you can turn around at any point.
A restaurant on the approach said to date back to 1540, known for inari sushi, rice packed in pouches of sweet fried tofu, and quail grilled at the shop front. It closes when the day's food sells out.
The shop said to have created kitsune senbei, crackers shaped like a fox mask and flavored with white miso. They are still baked one at a time by hand.
A teahouse on the approach for a break over amazake, a sweet, warm rice drink, grilled mochi or warabi mochi, a soft, jiggly sweet dusted with roasted soybean flour.
Another kitsune senbei shop, whose crackers are made with white miso or sesame worked into the dough. Buy a few to compare.